Rolling vs Spraying

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The spray gun stems from the invention of the first airbrush which was patented in 1876 by Francis Edgar Stanley. The first spray gun machine was developed in 1887, predating the roller by almost 53 years.

Spraying on paint requires longer amounts of preparation time to ensure all areas not to be painted, such as windows and floors are taped, marked or covered before application begins. Once spraying has begun, application is faster and can cover larger areas with a uniform and smooth finish.

Most good painters will then “back roll” their spray work, especially on ceilings and walls which will help to further push the paint into the surface pores. This will also give a lighter, textured finish, while ensuring any cracks or joints are also completely filled in. The finished result of “back rolling” also helps to ensure surfaces are easier to “touch up” for years to come.

If you like speed, using an airless sprayer is a great method for painting both interior and exterior walls. In many cases, it’s more suited to exterior jobs as you will have more overspray. It’s ideal for your garage or buildings with large outdoor walls especially when you need it done quicker while maintaining a professional finish. The only thing you need to be careful with when you’re spraying is over spray and paint waste.

However, with a sprayer like the Titan Capspray HVLP or Titan ED 655, you can achieve a more controlled, fine finish with your application on smaller indoor jobs. It’s perfect for smaller trims, interior doors, cabinets, stairs, and other areas that require greater detail and precision. When it comes to painting with a sprayer, you need to think about what it is your painting. For example, you could use this sprayer on interior doors, where you just can’t quite get the same professional finish you need with a roller.

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The paint roller is a traditional method for painting large surfaces such as walls and ceilings to achieve a smooth and uniform finish without the visible brush strokes.

Rolling on paint requires less preparation and clean up time while allowing an easy flow of workmanship. Rolling on paint allows a painter to apply thick, and lightly textured coats of paint.

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Neither using a sprayer or rolling on paint is much quicker than the other when taking into account the relevant preparation and application time. Also, neither method may use more paint than the other considering the efficiency of modern sprayers and the reduction of over spray. While spraying is a great way to paint harder to reach areas, such as cabinets and shelves or uniformly paint detailed items such as lattice, both methods are used depending on the requirements of the paint project and the preference of the individual painter.


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Titan PowrLiner™ 3500

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The revolutionary PowrLiner 3500, gas powered sealed hydraulic striper. Built with technology that delivers a best in class stripe with sharp and consistent line quality on even the toughest surfaces. As a leader in spraying technology, Titan manufactures and markets a full line of professional-grade paint sprayers for applying a variety of coatings.

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The Titan PowrLiner™ 3500 is a high pressure diaphragm pump design unit.  The majority of line stripers on the market are piston style airless pumps.  The benefit of having a high pressure diaphragm pump design is that it has less wear components such as piston packings, piston shafts, or balls and seats that can be costly to repair if ever damaged.

The pump supports up to a 0.027” tip and provides up to a maximum of 3300 PSI. Additionally, it has a spray gun that can be easily removed for hand use, allowing you to paint curbs or buildings with a single unit. The higher PSI pump design and larger tip opening will allow you to spray thicker materials relative to lower cost units. The engine is a gas-powered Honda 4.0 Hp 120cc engine.

The Titan PowrLiner™ 3500 is a bit more expensive than budget striper units. However, it is designed to be a dependable regular striper for contractor duty. While a budget striper may cost $1,200 – $1,500 dollars, the lifetime warranty, larger tip size, and fewer maintenance items could make it a compelling choice if you are looking for a bit of extra longevity and want a more performance from your line striper.


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Choosing the right airless tip

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Choosing the right airless tip contributes greatly to the performance of your sprayer, the quality of the finish and the success of your jobs. Tips control the width of the spray pattern; the paint flow rate; and, ultimately, they tell the pump how hard it should work.

With so much being tied to choosing the correct airless tip, it is important to consider the following.

Airless tips are sized using a 3 digit number such as 515. The first number has to do with the width of the spraying fan and the last 2 digits refer to the size of the hole or orifice the paint sprays through.

  • First digit – The spray width (x2 for width in inches) (known as ‘fan width’)
  • Second two digits – The hole size (known as ‘orifice size’)

The diagram below shows what happens when you change tip sizes. In example A, the three tips have the same fan width. As their orifice sizes increase, a greater volume of paint is applied to the 10-inch area, resulting in more paint per square inch. Example B shows three tips that have the same orifice size (.017). As the tips’ fan widths increase, the same amount of paint is applied over a greater area, resulting in less volume of paint applied per square inch as the sizes go up.

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There are basically two types of tips, reversible and flat, ranging in size from 107 (2- to 4-inch fan width for thin coatings like deck sealers), to 962 (18-inch fan width for heavy coatings like driveway sealers and roof coatings).

Flat tips were the first tips to enter the market and are most often used for spraying thin coatings like lacquer, enamels and stains. They can also be used to spray heavier coatings when a supplemental filtration system is being used with the sprayer. There’s a good reason for the filtration system. While flat tips are less expensive than reversible tips, it takes more effort to remove blockages when the paint has imperfections or particles of sand or dirt enter the system.

Reversible tips are designed for ease of use, and supplemental filtration systems aren’t required. Here’s how they work: When in spraying mode, the tip is facing forward. When a blockage enters the system, you reverse the tip by turning it 180 degrees, pull the trigger to spray the blockage out, then turn the tip back 180 degrees and continue working. There are several grades of reversible tips for residential and commercial painting (premium, versatile, value), and there are specialty reversible tips for high-pressure high-viscosity coatings, as well as for fine finishing.

Flat and reversible tips wear about the same, and their gallons-per-minute (GPM sprayed are about the same). The choice between a flat or reversible tip will depend on what coatings you spray, whether or not you want to use a filtration system, and how much you want to spend.

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You’ll want to consider two things when deciding on a tip size — what type of surface is being painted and the coating being applied. Here’s how it works:

  • Fan width: For large surfaces, like walls and ceilings, you’ll want a larger fan width for wider coverage of the area (8 to 24 inches). For smaller surfaces — like deck boards, cabinets and fences — you’ll want a smaller fan width (2 to 8 inches).
  • Orifice size: Generally, when the coating is thin, you’ll want a smaller orifice. When the coating is thick, you’ll want a larger orifice. Below are recommended orifice sizes for various types of coatings, based on a typical 12-inch distance from the surface with an 8- to 12-inch fan width.

The airless sprayer tips available on the market today make it easy for users to find a sprayer tip for any type of project. Whether it’s putting the finishing touches on a DIY cabinet project, or spraying large buildings for commercial renovations, or rendering a professional paint job for a steel bridge, there are numerous situations that call for specific sprayer tips. With knowledge of tip codes, it’s easy to navigate the large market of sprayer tips and understand exactly what fan size and volume of output to expect from any given tip. Understanding the orifice size and how it affects the pressure and rate at which paint comes out of the sprayer housing helps to extend the life of the tip for as long as possible and to ensure that the project at hand gets the right amount of pressurized paint.


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Titan ED655 Plus Airless Fine Finish Paint Sprayer With Hopper

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The perfect small project finishing system that every contractor should have on hand for fast, easy, light-duty jobs!

This is a lightweight, diaphragm-driven, smooth-running workhorse. It is truly the contractor’s friend. It is setup with heavy duty parts and seals to handle hotter materials such as lacquer. Many contractors dedicate this machine to lacquer projects and fine finishing jobs.

There will always be those minor but still important and profitable projects where most sprayers are either too big or too powerful. For these jobs you need a compact, lightweight, dedicated finishing system that is easy to use, easy to transport and, most importantly, DEPENDABLE. For those projects and the contractors who tackle them, the Titan ED655 Plus was designed. The perfect small project finishing system that every contractor should have on hand for fast, easy, light-duty jobs. Sprays stains, lacquers, oil based and latex.


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Hot Water vs Cold Water Pressure Washers

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Pressure washers can be categorized in several different ways: electric, gas-powered, residential or commercial. There is also another classification, and that’s cold or hot water pressure washers. Apart from the temperature of water they use, they differ in several other areas as well. Of course they both have their pros and cons, and knowing more about each will help you make a better decision.

Cold Water Pressure Washers

Unlike residential high pressure washers, cold-water pressure washers are designed for continuous use in commercial and industrial applications.
There are plenty of reasons why they are so popular, but the most important reason is probably that, when compared to their hot water counterparts, they are much cheaper and simpler in their construction (especially electric models).

Also, cold water pressure washers are a lot more practical due to their smaller dimensions which make them easier to move around. As far as maintenance goes even gas-powered pressure washers are a lot easier to maintain than the equivalent hot water designs.

Cold water pressure washers rely on the mechanical force of a pressurized water jet to dislodge dirt from the surface that needs to be cleaned. This force is usually enough to break down most impurities, but they are less efficient when it comes to tackling oily or greasy stains that can be found on hard surfaces such as garage floors, pavements and driveways. The use of detergents helps out a bit on some of the less tough stains, but oil and grease are often too much to handle for most cold pressure washers.

Cold water power washers rely on high-pressure water jets to remove dirt, and the higher the PSI and GPM number, the more powerful the pressure washer is.

Hot Water Pressure Washers

You’ll want to make sure you choose a hot water pressure washer or industrial power washer if the surface you are cleaning contains any type of grease, grime or oil. Just like doing your dishes, cold water only moves oil around, but doesn’t clean it away. Hot water pressure washers and industrial power washers are heated with fuel oil, diesel, natural gas or propane, and are designed to blast away tough grease & grime.

Hot water pressure washers have the ability to produce steam which comes in really handy if you want to get surfaces spotless to the point where they’re germ free. However, a hot water and high pressure combo is more effective than just steam. You may also notice that hot water pressure washers have a lower PSI than gas-powered pressure washers.

As far as the cons for hot water pressure washers go? They are big, bulky and thanks to their complex design, more complicated to maintain. They are also more expensive.


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Cleaning Stucco With a Pressure Washer

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Stone walls, brick and standard siding are all common ways to decorate the house but stucco is an excellent alternative to all this if you know how to keep it clean.

Stucco usually has a textured surface and this allows dirt, grime and dust to settle down all over the surface. What starts off as a beautiful surface soon disintegrates with weeks of dust piling over each other. Thankfully, having a pressure washer around works wonders as it blasts past any kind of build-up that may develop on your stuccoed wall.

Repair Any Crack

Before doing any power washing, you need to make sure there aren’t any cracks or chips in the stucco. If there are, water can seep through them, potentially leading to structural damage down the line.

All cracks and chips should be patched and given enough time to dry. You should let patches dry for about a week.

Dealing With Rust And Heavy Stains

For heavily stained regions, a rotating scrub brush works great as it helps in freeing up dirt and grime before the pressure washer’s force blows them away. Choose a quality brush for this purpose as the better the quality, the faster the job gets done. For rust, you will have to scrub it by hand removing it slowly as you go since rust and water really don’t go well.

Spray It All Away

Set your pressure washer at a setting of between 1,500 and 2,500 PSI and test it on an inconspicuous area of the stucco before you use it on your surface. This will let you know if the PSI needs to be adjusted down without damaging visible areas. Keep the tip of the pressure washer about 2 to 2 ½ feet away from the wall and hold the wand so that the water stream is angled, hitting the stucco at around a 45 degree angle to avoid damage. Rinse the detergent away, working in sections and moving from the top down. Work around your windows, as a pressure washer may damage them.

Start from the same point you did when applying detergent, then work your way in the same direction. Clean one section at a time, and be sure to overlap slightly to avoid missing anything. Unlike the bottom-up approach you take when applying detergent, start rinsing from the top and work your way down.

The dirt and detergent will run down the surface of the wall, so a downward rinse will keep the soapy filth moving in the direction you want it to. When you’re finished, gently rinse the surrounding foliage with clean water to dilute and flush away any lingering detergent.


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Spray Techniques – Configurations

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Painting Inside Corners

When spraying corners the gun should be aimed into the corner, spraying along the corner, rather than spraying back and forth across the corner.

To avoid double coating the same area, use horizontal strokes to spray the area adjacent to the corner. Spray each side of the corner separately. A vertical pattern is often used.

Outside Corners

To spray the outside of a corner, a straight-on method can be used. The adjoining surfaces are then banded.

Small/Vertical Flat Surfaces

When spraying small, vertical flat work piece configurations, the banding technique is used. Using a horizontal pattern, band the edges of the part. After banding the edges of the part, finish the part with horizontal strokes. First, spray the Class B side of a work piece (the side that will not be finished), then spray the Class A (finished) side. If there is any overspray turbulence, it will not appear on the Class A side of the work piece.

Long/Vertical Flat Surfaces

Spray long vertical flat surfaces with horizontal strokes in sections from approximately 18″ to 36″ wide. With practice, you will find the distance most comfortable to your needs. As on small vertical flat parts, use the same banding technique on each end of a long vertical flat part. Use the same triggering technique as with a smaller panel, but overlap each section approximately four inches.

Level Surfaces

When spraying a level or horizontal surface, always start on the near side of the part and work to the far side of the part: this technique allows the overspray to fall on the uncoated work. Some gun tilt will be necessary.

Round Parts

Small cylinder shapes, like furniture legs, are best sprayed with a narrow spray pattern, using three vertical strokes. A vertical pattern and stroke can be used, but the gun movement must be quicker to prevent sags and runs.

Spray smaller or medium diameter cylinders with lengthwise strokes. Spray large cylinders like a flat vertical surface, only with shorter strokes.


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Picking The Right Commercial Gas Pressure Washer

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As a professional, you know what you need in a pressure washer – power and reliability.

Although professional power washers aren’t cheap, the investment is worthwhile when it earns you money for years to come.

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Gas Cold Water

Professional gas cold water power washers offer high-quality, commercial pumps, coupled with reliable, commercial engines. If you’re a professional who needs to pressure wash everyday, or a consumer who demands the most from your equipment, you’ll love these units.

Don’t try to be a hot-shot and use the spray gun one-handed; it has a lot of cleaning power and you might hurt yourself. Also, be careful not to stand too close to the things you’re cleaning so you don’t damage them with the robust cleaning power.

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Gas Hot Water

Professional gas hot water pressure washers are big, brawny machines, capable of tackling the worst messes. They come mounted to sturdy 4-wheel carts to handle their size and weight. Look for units with adjustable pressure and temperature for optimal versatility.

Hot water is just more effective at removing stains. Why? The hotter the temperature, the lower the surface tension of water. Hot water contains fast moving, or excited, particles. This means the molecules spread apart, making it easier to expand and then loosen a stain. In addition, hot water can more quickly cut through grease and it effectively kills bacteria and microorganisms.

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Gas Belt Drive

Professional gas belt-drive pressure washers have engines similar to cars. They usually require less upkeep and maintenance than other engines and run more quietly as well.

If you’re using one of these to clean a driveway, don’t hold it too close – you could put a hole right in it. These belt-drive units are designed for contractors who need to run them 40+ hours a week, so they’re built to take a lickin’ and keep on kickin’.

Benefits of Belt Drive

  • Vibration Absorption
  • Lower RPM
  • Lower Operating Temperature
  • Longer Life



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Spray Techniques – Gun Movement and Position

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A good spray pattern indicates that the paint or coating is completely atomized and distributed evenly on the surface. Several techniques help determine the quality of the spray pattern and the quality of the finish.

  • Adjusting the pressure
  • Aiming of the spray pattern
  • Movement of the spray gun
The following techniques ensure a long-lasting quality finish

Adjusting the pressure for spraying


It is best to spray at the lowest pressure that completely atomizes the coating. The pressure control should be set at a low-pressure setting and slowly increased until the paint is completely atomized. If the spray pattern has fingers or tails, then the pressure should be increased.


Aiming the Spray Pattern

The spray gun should be held approximately 12 inches (30.5 cm) from the surface, and aimed straight (both horizontally and vertically) at the surface.
Extremely large tips will require you to move further away to achieve a good spray pattern.
The spray gun should move across the surface with the wrist flexed to keep the gun pointed straight at the surface. “Fanning” the gun to direct the spray at an angle will cause an uneven finish.


Triggering Technique

The spray gun should be triggered after beginning the stroke (also called the lead stroke) and released before ending the stroke (also called the lag stroke).
The gun should move during both the trigger squeeze and trigger release. This technique prevents blotches of thick coating at the beginning and end of each stroke.

Overlapping Technique

This technique ensures that an even amount of coating has been sprayed onto the surface. The spray gun should be aimed so that the tip points at the edge of the previous stroke, overlapping each stroke by 50%. To maximize efficiency when spraying on broad, open surfaces, like ceilings and bare walls, the outside edges of walls should be sprayed first. The middle can then be sprayed quickly, requiring less precise strokes.


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